Story and photos by Dan Black

Top: Faces on the Remembrance And Renewal sculpture appear to look into the Juno Beach Centre at Courseulles-sur-Mer. Inset: Juno Beach Centre Association President Garth Webb at the opening ceremony; bottom: Juno Beach Centre Association associate director and Legionnaire Doug Shanks finds his name on one of the kiosks outside the centre.

The old faces tell the story. You can see it in their eyes and in the lines across their foreheads: the landing craft coming in, black smoke over the water, breathless moments turning into sheer terror, the unravelling chaos and the tide of dutiful courage fanning out over blood and sand.

A lot has changed in 59 years. Back then–on June 6, 1944–these men had young faces. Back then, many of them were 18, 19 and 20; full of piss and vinegar and ready to kick ass against the Germans and bring an end to the war that had begun nearly five years previously. That’s how a lot of them were when they landed here on D-Day. Today, most of “the lads” are in their late 70s or early 80s and there’s a real sense among them and among their admirers that their time is running out.

And so on this day–June 6, 2003–they are back in Normandy, perhaps for the last time, to participate in a monumental event: the official opening of the
$8.1-million Juno Beach Centre at Courseulles-sur-Mer. The facility itself, which from the air resembles a stylized maple leaf, is meant as a learning centre, but it is also a memorial to these and other Canadians who served in Northwest Europe, Sicily and Italy, the Far East, at sea, in the air and on the home front.

One of the old faces near the beach is 84-year-old Garth Webb of Burlington, Ont. He appears proud and more than a little bit surprised by the way in which the project came together. As president of the Juno Beach Centre Association, Webb was the leading force behind the grassroots campaign that turned dream into reality. And while the 1,427-square-metre centre is located on the very beach liberated by Canadians, Webb is very quick to point out that it was established to recognize the contributions and sacrifices of all Canadians who served during World War II.

“Something like this should have been built at least 10 years ago,” said Webb, who was 25 when he came ashore on D-Day at nearby Bernières-sur-Mer. “It should have been done when all of my pals–who would have worked twice as hard as me–were still alive. All those guys are now gone, and it is a shame they did not live to see this. Still, we are very proud and pleased. Proud of what it is and so very pleased with the incredible amount of volunteer support and donations received.”

Although the official opening included two prime ministers and numerous other politicians and dignitaries, the day belonged to the more than 1,000 war veterans in attendance and to those who could not make the trip overseas: men, women and schoolchildren who contributed to the fundraising campaign that drew in over 13,000 individual contributions, ranging from a dollar to $100,000. “The grassroots support from the Canadian public was absolutely phenomenal,” explained WW II veteran Jan de Vries, 79, of Pickering, Ont.

The cause was started about eight years ago when Webb and his partner Lise Cooper visited Juno Beach and realized there was no substantial recognition for what Canadians did during the war. “We had been to Vimy and we were very impressed by the guides there. They do a wonderful job of selling Canada. It is a great place to learn about what our country did during WW I. So we figured we should do the same for World War II, and that was our objective from the start.

“The centre has become something more than what we ever dreamed of. When we started out we just thought it would be a showplace where Canadians would have an opportunity to tell their story,” said Webb, who served with the 14th Field Regiment.

The location at Courseulles-sur-Mer was the second site selected for the centre. The first one was at Bernières, but while the mayor there was very enthusiastic, his council did not support the idea, said Juno Beach Centre associate director Jacques Levesque. “They were not interested. They told us they’d be happy with an art museum, but not a war museum per se. And so we looked around and the mayor of Courseulles was quite happy to give us a piece of land that we could access for 99 years for one franc…. Most of the townspeople were ambivalent. They weren’t quite sure. There was an issue with campers who had been coming here since the late 1940s…. The mayor told us he would clear the site. He gave the campers a year’s notice, but they ended up having to go to court over it. The town won and that’s when we started raising funds and making plans for construction.”

Jan de Vries, who is one of the centre’s directors and who served with the 1st Canadian Parachute Battalion, said the idea grew and so did the public’s support. “For example, the Toronto Police Association contributed $150,000…. That kind of generosity put pressure on other police associations.” He said generous amounts of money also came from city councils and town councils. “They represent the public and they certainly spoke for the public,” he said.

The largest contribution–$4.4 million–came from the federal government. This included $2 million from Veterans Affairs Canada and another $500,000 from VAC to assist with the cost of opening the centre. The federal amount also includes $253,000 from the Department of Canadian Heritage. The provincial governments in Ontario and British Columbia each gave $1 million while the Alberta government kicked in $100,000. Lesser amounts came from other provinces.

In addition, taxpayers in France contributed $1.2 million.

And as of June, donations from individual Canadians amounted to $3.5 million. A large portion was raised by Wal-Mart Canada which made a cash contribution of $1.5 million, the result of store fundraising activities. These latter events were undertaken by store associates with help from many Legionnaires. Webb said Wal-Mart also contributed a lot of money to promotion, including a prime time TV ad. The balance of the funds were collected through a memorial brick program and other activities.

Dominion Command of The Royal Canadian Legion gave $6,000 and contributed to the opening ceremony. Across the land, close to 400 Legion branches came through with their own donations.

Prime Minister Jean Chrétien said during the opening ceremony that the grassroots effort “galvanized Canadians” from across the country. He said the project’s volunteers worked together as “a community to honour” Canada’s commitment to its past. “Without their dedication and leadership, we would not be here today…. As a country we hold a great depth of memory to those who shed their blood on these shores. Seeing so many people here today, at the opening of the Juno Beach Centre, tells me that we will not break our promise with the fallen. That as a country we will preserve the memory of their deeds.”

French Prime Minister Jean-Pierre Raffarin thanked Canada’s war veterans for the freedom they gave to the people of France and Europe.

Ontario Premier Ernie Eves said the centre is a fitting tribute and a permanent reminder that “good triumphs over evil, justice prevails over tyranny and God almighty watches over the spirit of human decency.” He said for almost 60 years people have benefited from the peace and freedom soldiers earned with their sweat and bought with their blood…. “We must always remember these courageous young soldiers, their spirit of camaraderie, their heroism and the lives and the families they left behind to serve freedom. We must pass these stories on to the generations that follow. We must tell our children and grandchildren that democracy, freedom and justice are not just ideals to live by, but principles to fight for.”

The ceremony began at 5:30 p.m. local time with a parachute drop by the famed Canadian Forces Skyhawks. The parachute team dropped just behind the centre, where they delivered a Canadian flag amid thunderous applause.

After speaking to the crowd and singling out the brave contributions of Canada’s war veterans, the two prime ministers unveiled the plaque, which dedicates the centre to all of Canada’s WW II veterans.

The prayers and commemorative portion of the colourful and at times emotional ceremony was conducted by Canadian Forces Chaplain Lawrence MacIsaac. The lieutenant began with a prayer of dedication for the bronze sculpture that sits in the centre’s courtyard. Titled Remembrance And Renewal, it was created by Canadian sculptor Colin Gibson. The five helmeted figures depicted in the sculpture appear to undulate into one another, creating an impression of unity, strength and purpose. “We remember with gratitude and appreciation the supreme sacrifices that so many Canadians made,” said the chaplain during the dedication. “We honour them. We remember the desire in their hearts to free people from tyranny, the desire that enabled them to remain firm in their mission until the day had ended….”

The ceremony also included the dedication of eight kiosks covered with memorial bricks. Fashioned out of titanium, the bricks sold for $250 each and bear the names of veterans and other donors. Legionnaire Doug Shanks, one of the centre’s associate directors, was put in charge of fundraising in eastern Canada. His work began about three years ago and continues today. Prior to leaving for the ceremony he picked up a cheque for $10,000. “We supplied Legionnaires to work at the Wal-Mart stores. We handed out literature at two international tattoos, and did some other fundraising as well. It was time well spent.”

Dedication of the kiosks was followed by the playing of the Last Post, then two minutes of silence, reveille and lament. The latter was performed by a piper standing on the windswept beach.

Also participating in the opening ceremony was a large aggregation of pipers and drummers from across Canada. There was the 30-person Neil-Michaud Choir from Moncton, N.B., the Regimental Band of the Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada, the Regimental Band of the Royal Winnipeg Rifles, the Royal Canadian Legion Pipes and Drums and its core group the Ontario Royal Canadian Legion Pipes, Drums and Colours. The program also included the Calgary Police Service Pipe Band, Edmonton Police Service Pipes and Drums, and the Pipes and Drums of Lindsay.

Gino Falconi, who volunteered to co-ordinate the music for the opening ceremony, said the musicians raised their own funds to get to Normandy. “It is very exciting to be working with all these volunteers. It is a huge undertaking but we all realize this is a very important day in Canadian history. Here we are in France putting up what is perhaps the most significant Canadian memorial to the soldiers who were involved in World War II.”

Other poignant moments came during the placing of wreaths and the reading of a poem written by 11-year-old Jodie Johnson from the United Kingdom. Titled Who Are These Men?, the poem asks:

Who are these men
with sorrowful look
who still can remember
the lives that were took?
These are the men
who saw young men die.
The price of peace
is always high.

There were other emotionally charged moments during the ceremony, including the dramatic appearance of a Spitfire and the dropping of 43,000 poppies, each one representing a Canadian serviceman killed during the war. Painted in the colours of WW II Royal Air Force wing leader Johnnie Johnson, the sight of the aircraft took people’s breath away. In July 1943, Johnson established the Kenley Wing, which was composed of new Canadian pilots straight out of the operational training unit. To many men on the ground, the sound of the Spitfire was the sound of freedom. The poppies–dropped from a helicopter–were donated by Dominion Command of The Royal Canadian Legion and as they fluttered earthward, spectators, including many veterans, reached up to cradle them in their hands.

There were smiles and there were tears for what was earned so many years ago in a world consumed by war. The new building that they are so proud of–with its curves, sloping lines and titanium walls–covers an area of 1,427 square metres. It is located on a 1.5 hectare site facing the English Channel. Inside, a 632-square-metre permanent exhibit commemorates Canada’s WW II contributions and sacrifices. A temporary exhibit, showcasing the country’s Inuit culture, occupies 165 square metres.

The permanent exhibit, which is structured around seven themes, begins with a multimedia film presentation, followed by interactive exhibits that provide an understanding of Canada before the war. Subsequent rooms tell of Canada at war and the roads to victory. The next room is dedicated to the importance of remembrance. Visitors complete the tour in the Faces of Canada Today room that includes an outdoor view of the invasion beaches.

Veteran Walter Solly, who came ashore on D-Day with the Stormont, Dundas and Glengarry Highlanders, said it is important to have such a place. “The Canadian troops did a lot of hard work during the war,” said the Cornwall, Ont., resident. “They should be remembered. The centre will also teach younger generations what went on and what was accomplished.”

Solly was wounded in Normandy on July 23, 1944. A piece of shrapnel went through his right leg just below the knee. It happened a few miles south of Caen, a city liberated by Canadian soldiers. After he was wounded he lowered himself into a slit trench and called for the stretcher- bearers. “I was losing blood so fast that it was hard to put the dressing on, but I managed to do that and call for help.” Solly was lucky he didn’t lose the leg.

On another occasion, a piece of shrapnel went through Solly’s steel helmet just above the ear. “It cut the rubber rim inside the helmet in two and left a bump on the side of my head the size of an egg.”

Ted O’Halloran served with the Queen’s Own Rifles of Canada. He was a bandsman turned stretcher-bearer when he landed on D-Day. “We were supposed to come in at about 7:30 in the morning but the sea was so rough that by the time we all got together with our landing craft it was about a quarter to eight. At first it was just like any manoeuvre, but when our boys started to get killed or wounded the realization set in. When we were running up on the beach three of our bandsmen were killed and we couldn’t do anything about it. They never made it across the beach. I seen them fall…. We got up to the seawall and stayed there for a few seconds and then we got over the wall and into town.”

O’Halloran, who lives in Toronto, said the centre, which also has a Web site, is a fitting tribute to all who served Canada in wartime.

Retired Major-General Richard Rohmer was above the beach on D-Day, serving as a fighter reconnaissance pilot with 430 Squadron of the Royal Canadian Air Force. “I had the best seat in the house at 500 feet,” he recalled. “From that height I could see out to sea from the beach and the horizon was covered with black smoke. This was about a quarter to seven in the morning. I saw lights winking in the black smoke and of course that was the fire coming from the battleships…. They were doing their best to knock out the enemy gun emplacements…. I saw the landing craft coming in…. The sight of the fighting down below, the shells landing and the anti-aircraft fire made for some very dynamic moments….”

When asked what he thinks of the Juno Beach Centre, Rohmer says Webb and his team have done a fantastic job. “When he started off there were people who said he couldn’t do it. That it would never get done, but he stuck with it and now we have this magnificent achievement….”

Ted Davie, a director at the centre, and the man who was responsible for the opening ceremonies, said a study indicated the facility could expect to attract 35,000 visitors a year. He said that figure is hard to believe when you consider that the town’s little aquarium attracts 60,000 a year. “With this building and what it has to offer we are expecting a minimum of 75,000. We will probably do better than that in the first year.” With those kinds of numbers, Davie expects the centre will be able to cover its operating costs.

The centre’s full-time director is Nathalie Worthington. The Web site is www.junobeach.org. The mailing address is Centre Juno Beach, Voie des Français Libres, B.P. 104, 14470 Courseulles-sur-Mer, France.